Acids and Actives in Skincare: The Basics

ACIDS & ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

What are they? Do I need them? What do we use them for?

Want to have the skin of a Hollywood A-lister without the hefty price tag or weekly maintenance appointments, read on!

…I know, sounds a bit scary, right?  “Acid? On my skin?” Fear not my friends….!

Many consider regular use of ‘active’ ingredients in your daily, or weekly, skincare rituals as your passport to ‘The Fountain of Youth’, particularly if your budget dosen’t quite stretch to botox, plastic surgery and other such procedures. Acids and Actives are touted around in skincare marketing and feature on a vast array of product labels but most people that I know haven’t a clue how one acid, or active, differs from the next or what they are supposed to do.

These magic potions can produce dramatic effects when introduced slowly into your daily regime and used correctly. Early subscribers to this new blog will know I promised to explain the matter of ACTIVE INGREDIENTS and ACIDS in my previous post so scroll down to get a jargon busting breakdown.

Acids or ‘active’ ingredients are pushed under our noses in adverts, emblazoned all over skincare packaging, appear in magazine articles and so on and yet frankly, it’s all a bit too scientific to care much about….or so you thought…?! Companies that refer to ‘active ingredients’ are talking about acids. They are one and the same thing and these acids, or actives, alter the skin in some way. Basically, it is more retail friendly to refer to ‘active’s’ as opposed to the scary notion of applying acid direct to your skin.

These powerful ingredients are naturally derived skin exfoliators and come with many added benefits. While they are designed to be used daily, sometimes twice a day, for those who have never used acid, or ‘actives’ before, the key is to introduce them to your regime slowly to avoid any potential reactions. Start by using your chosen acids perhaps every 3 nights/days and then increase to the suggested frequency incrementally so your skin has an adjustment period.

The most common ones split into 2 groups:

AHA’s (made from sugary fruits - Alpha Hydroxy Acids )

BHA’s (Beta Hydroxy Acids).

Both exfoliate by dissolving the dead skin cells that sit on the epidermis and share similar benefits but, in brief, if you are looking for anti-ageing and relief from dry, flaky or dehydrated skin, use AHA’s. BHA’s are used to relieve inflammatory skin conditions such as acne, pimples or rosacea. Here is a basic infographic I’ve put together to make it easy to understand the difference:

aha V bha Infographic P.hughes

JARGON BUSTING CRASH COURSE IN THE MOST COMMON ACIDS

and the issues they address

AZELAIC: an antioxidant that brightens skin tone and naturally occurs in the skin. It is anti-inflammatory and studies show that it is very effective at preventing or reducing breakouts. Many acne sufferers swear by this as this acid basically tells your skin to behave! While being effective on all skin types, including helping to reduce skin sensitivity, it is a particularly effective mild exfoliant that improves acne scars or discolouration after a breakout, uneven skin texture or dull skin tone. (AHA)

Recommendation: The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% £5.50 and also available at Boots online, Paulas Choice Azelaic 10% Booster Serum (with Liquorice and Salicylic) £32

GLYCOLIC: Experts recommend this for general brightening, anti-ageing and exfoliating. This is a hero product, considered by many to be the holy grail of exfoliation ingredients penetrating deep into the skin. Bear in mind you need this in a concentration of 10% to be effective and to maintain its potency but it can come in milder solutions. Glycolic basically removes dead skin from the surface of the face to reveal fresher more luminous skin. Therefore it’s popular for treating surface skin scars left by acne, fine lines and wrinkles, skin discolouration, minimising pores and improving skin tone. It’s derived from sugar and a stronger product, yet similar, to Lactic acid (see below). (AHA)

Recommendation: Pixi Glow Tonic £18 or Mario Badescu Glycolic Toner £16, The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Solution £6.80, Ole Henriksen Balancing Force Oil Control Toner £22

HYALURONIC: This baby tackles dry and dehydrated skin. It is in fact already naturally present in the skin but ageing, pollution, diet and so on all deplete our skin’s moisture levels so we can help to top these up via serums , facial oils and Vitamin E. Hyaluronic locks in ten times more moisture into your skin so using a hyaluronic serum will turbo charge any further serums and moisturisers that you layer on top thereby making these more effective and your skin more plumped and hydrated. (AHA)

Recommendation: Drunk Elephant B-Hydra Intensive Hydration Serum £40, The Ordinary Hyarulonic Acid 2% + B5 £5.90 also available at Boots online, Vichy Mineral 89 Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum £18.75

LACTIC: Derives from milk and fruit sugar. Great for those looking to revive dull tired skin as it is an effective yet gentle exfoliator dissolving the dead surface skin cells while also softening and replenishing moisture . A great starting point to those new to the exfoliating properties of acids and a gentler version of its Glycolic counter-part above. If you are after a more hydrated, brighter and even skin tone but you have sensitive skin, this acid is the way to go. (AHA)

Recommendation: The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA £5.80 (the HA stands for Hyaluronic Acid) or Sarah Chapman Liquid Facial Resurfacer £41, REN Ready, Steady, Glow Daily AHA Tonic £27, Kate Somerville Exfolikate Intensive Treatment £21

NOTE: My personal recommendation to anyone who has shown any interest in trying a chemical peel (favoured by many an A-lister to keep that youthful glow and wrinkles at bay), is the fabulous product by Skin Doctors called Gamma Hydroxy Skin Resurfacing Cream which retails for £41.99 but available through All Beauty for £29.95. This is a pot of magic in my view with the combined effects of Glycolic, Lactic and Salicylic (see below). It has the same effects as a chemical peel jar minus the drama or ‘peel’ …or the price tag!

L-ASCORBIC (Vitamin C): Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant. Another hero product in the fight against the ageing process and you will find this listed in many product ingredients in varying strengths. Very effective in brightening the skin, reducing pigmentation and skin discolouration, evens out skin tone and plays a major role in overall skin repair and rejuvenation. Available as a serum or sometimes in powder form, but I would recommend using the serum from a practical point of view.

Recommendation: Click GET 20% OFF to get Face Theory’s Regena 20% Vitamin C Serum C20 £18.99 using my referral code,The Ordinary Ascorbic Acid 8% + Alpha Arbutin 2% £10.30, Clinique’s Fresh Pressed 7 Day Pressed System with Pure Vitamin C £25.00, Kiehl’s Vitamin C Powerful Strength Line Reducing Concentrate £52 for 50ml

MANDELIC: A good choice for improving pigmentation, skin texture, acne, enlarged pores, signs of ageing. It can be combined with other acids to increase exfoliation. Not as strong as Glycolic, for example. Better for dry sensitive skins as some studies have shown mandelic usage can increase sebum production. Naturally derived from almonds. (AHA)

Recommendation: Click GET 20% OFF to get Face Theory’s Mandelibright 10% Mandelic Acid Serum using my referral code, The Ordinary Mandelic Acid 10% £5.80

SALICYLIC: This is the gold standard product to treat acne and blemishes. It clears pores and removes oil. It comes in a variety of forms; cleanser, toner, medicated pads (great for travelling) or as a serum. It penetrates deep into the skin to unblock clogged pores and in the process, it decongests the skin by dissolving the skin surface debris which causes breakouts. It basically deeply exfoliates and keeps your pores clean because of its anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. (BHA)

Recommendation: Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant (Toner Liquid) £28, Click GET 20% OFF to get Face Theory’s BHA Exfoliating Serum with 2% Salicylic Acid (Serum) £18.99, Cerave Smoothing Cleanser (Cream Cleanser), Medik8 Blemish Control Pads £27, The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution £4.20

……Last but by no means least, Niacinamide deserves a BIG mention…..This is a combined AHA and BHA.

NIACINAMIDE/Vitamin B3: This is a great all rounder serum which most could benefit from using. Firstly, it helps build keratin that is a form of protein keeping skin healthy. Like Hyaluronic, it also helps to retain moisture which is ideal for maturing skins. Furthermore, it reduces inflammation making it ideal for anyone with rosacea or blemish/acne prone skin while also reducing pore size, protecting against sun damage and environmental pollution, minimising fine lines and wrinkles and improving hyperpigmentation. However, it should not be used with vitamin c and some acids because it can make them less effective when combined as well as flushing or redness. It’s best to therefore use Niacinamide at a different time of day to your other acids i.e use one in the morning, the other at night. You can apply this under hydrating serums, moisturisers, oils and SPFs and you don’t have to hang around waiting for it to sink in. You could also apply them on alternate days. Or why not try this fab ingredient out in a pre-mixed serum or solution.

Recommendation: GET 20% OFF to get Face Theory’s Porebright Serum N10 with 10% Niacinamide and Azelaic £14.99, Glossier Super Pure Serum, The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% and Zinc 1% £5, Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster £41